Growing up in Nigeria I have always been surrounded by the Lebanese community. Whether that was through spending time with my friends in school, regularly enjoying family dinners in Lebanese restaurants, eating man'oushe for lunch, or counting stars with my handsome Lebanese high school boyfriend.
Visiting Lebanon has always been on my travel list however with the ongoing regional instability, every time I tried to make that booking, some twist of fate stopped me. That was until last year. When the UAE announced a 4 day public holiday for Eid Al Fitr in June, it was now or never – and conveniently 4 of my Lebanese friends just happened to be heading home to Beirut at the same time.
Did you know: the world’s first law school was built in Beirut.
Beirut or “Bey” as it’s socially known, is one of the most chaotic cities I have visited. From the moment you leave Rafic Hariri Airport and head towards the city centre, your senses are struck with a myriad of combustion caused by hectic, noisy traffic as you drive along the cluster of refugee homes set up along Airport Road. Having lived in Abu Dhabi for almost 10 years (one of the world’s cleanest and safest cities), my senses were certainly not prepared for a thrilling 360 degree stimulation.
My first impression of Beirut was not as advertised on those glossy magazines and travel sites. In fact, it made me feel like I was transported back to Nigeria for a split second - however, don’t let this put you off, this is just the beginning of an extremely colourful city.
To explain this context, Lebanon’s history spans 7,000 years being home to some of the oldest civilisations in the world. It is a unique place where 3 main religious and 6.8 million people live together, having witnessed catastrophic turmoil and hardship - all of which have shaped the country (and Beirut specifically) into what it is today. It is a place where you would say “bonjour” and “merci” in one part, while in the other part you would say “salam w alaikum” and “shukran”.
Having built a strong community foundation through all the historical hardships, Lebanese are very proud of where they come from and where they live, be it in a Christian or Muslim neighbourhood. I was however intrigued to learn that most citizens stay within the perimetre of their own community and rarely venture out into uncharted waters. This further explains the complexity of Beirut and why every Lebanese has a different opinion of what visitors should see and do.
Did you know: Beirut is often referred to as “The Phoenix” as it has been destroyed and re-built 7 times.
During my short 4 day trip, my friends created a condensed itinerary so that I could get a real sense of what Bey is like, and why it is one of the most popular cities in the world. To sum it up, Beirut is a real melting pot of contrasts where everything seems to eventually make sense. From its landscape of green hills meeting the glittery Mediterranean Sea, to its numerous interconnecting streets, distinct architectural styles, and of course diverse booming nightlife, here are my recommended things you need to see and do when visiting Beirut for the first time.
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Beirut Souks
Beirut Souks is the city's largest shopping and leisure complex featuring more than 200 shops, 25 restaurants, a cinema and entertainment centre. It is a reconstruction of the pre-Lebanese Civil War area where Souk al-Tawileh and Souk al-Jamil where located. These 2 famous historical souks were known for housing haute-coutre fashion and boutiques, while within the same area Souk al-Franj offered the largest supply of fruit, vegetables and flowers in the country.
During the war, the souks sustained irreparable damage however were rebuilt into the complex it is today. It is a great place to take a break and stroll along the piazzas while enjoying a refreshment or shopping spree.
More info: beirutsouks.com.lb
Place D’Etoile or Nejme Square
This is one of the main squares in downtown Beirut and is located a few minutes walk from the Beirut Souks. Several notable buildings are located within this square including: Lebanese Parliament, 2 cathedrals, a museum, several restaurants, and 1930's clock tower. Pre-war this square was filled with souks and markets so strolling around will almost transport you back to a different time.
St. George Orthodox Cathedral & Mohammad Al Amin Mosque
I find it fascinating that these two religious sites are located right beside each other in downtown Beirut.
St. George Orthodox Cathedral is the oldest church in the city with a history dating back to the 5th century Byzantine Empire. Its beautiful frescoes tell countless stories from both ancient times and more recent history as they bare the scares of bullets from the civil war.
Opened in 2008, Mohammad Al Amin Mosque is one of Beirut's most popular religious and tourist landmarks. Its striking blue domes and amber coloured minarets are inspired by Ottoman architecture and resemble Istanbul's Sultan Ahmed Mosque.
National Museum of Beirut
During all my trips around the world, I always make sure to visit the National Museum as it gives me a deeper understanding and connection of the history. For the amount of times Beirut has been destroyed and rebuilt, my heart raced as I stepped into the National Museum of Beirut to discover countless treasures on display. Lebanon's history is no understatement and the museum beautifully showcases traces of ancient history and priceless treasures from the past.
The museum plays a touching documentary which depicts the process curators and staff went through to secure precious artifacts during the war by sealing them in boxes and cementing with concrete - hoping to protect the last link we have with the past.
More info: museebeyrouth-liban.org/en
Sursock Museum
This modern and contemporary art museum which opened in 1961 is owned by the Sursock family and is housed in the gorgeous mansion pictured below. It presents wonderful works of art collected from around the world as well as beautifully presents local artists. The museum hosts regular exhibitions so be sure to check out their website prior to visiting.
More info: sursock.museum
Raouché Rock
Sitting strangely along the coast of the Mediterranean Sea, Raouché Rock is an impressive landmark which was naturally formed following a strong earthquake in the 13th century. It is located along the popular Corniche and is visited by countless tourists and residents. To get the best view, I recommend having a coffee or lunch at one of the hotels facing the rock, or stroll along the 10km promenade (any day apart from the weekend because it gets very crowded).
Fun Fact: According to Greek Mythology, the impressive rocks are said to be the remains of a sea monster, killed by Perseus using Medusa's head in order to save Andromeda.
Roman Ruins
One of my favourite elements of exploring the city was admiring the remains of ancient Roman ruins nestled among modern buildings, blending the old with the new. Two prominent sites are the Roman Berytus Baths, an ancient bath site located in downtown Beirut which was discovered in 1968; and the pillars of Cardo Maximus which was the name given to a main or central north-south street.
Zaitunay Bay
Located in the Beirut Marina, this waterfront destination offers a wide variety of restaurants, cafes, and shops. It hosts several cultural events, concerts and exhibitions throughout the year and is popular among residents and tourists.
More info: zaitunaybay.com
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After you cover all the sights and sounds of Beirut, make sure to venture out to 2 unmissable spots located just a 30 minute drive away from the city.
Jeita Grotto
One of the most incredible natural wonders in the world, this impressive cave is located 18 km away from Beirut and is an absolute must see when visiting the country. The cave was discovered in 1836 by an American missionary and is made up of 2 grottoes filled with hanging stalagmites and stalactites, all naturally formed in different shapes, colours, and sizes.
The upper grotto allows visitors to enjoy a small trek, while the lower grotto offers a thrilling and chilly boat tour. It is one of the most impressive and exciting natural landmarks I have ever visited! Unfortunately photos and videos are not allowed inside the grotto, so I strongly encourage you to check out the website - I can only tease the grotto's majesty with this beautiful image below.
The area outside of the caves is enveloped in lush greenery and the landscaped gardens are the perfect place to enjoy fresh air while immersing in nature. There are also several ancient sculptures dotted along the grounds and a tranquil stream.
More info: jeitagrotto.com
Our Lady of Lebanon
Towering high above the nearby town of Harissa, Our Lady of Lebanon is the holiest shrine for Lebanese Maronites. The 600 metre high statue which is visited by millions of pilgrims and tourists each year offers a place of peace, devotion, and reflection. It overlooks the beautiful Jounieh Bay and boasts the best panoramic views!
Our Lady of Lebanon is accessible from Jounieh either by car or by the historical teleferique (cable car), which I highly recommend as the scenery is incredible. It only takes 10 minutes and is definitely worth all the wobbles!
More info: www.teleferiquelb.com/services
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No trip to Beirut is complete without a wild night out. Coming from Serbia where nightlife and partying is part of our daily lifestyle, I was excited to experience Beirut’s legendary nightlife. My conclusion: Lebanese are basically Serbs with olive skin and partying runs in their veins too. Below is a hit list of cool places for a wild or chilled night out:
Cyrano: www.instagram.com/cyrano_apero
The Village Dbayeh (my fav spot): www.instagram.com/thevillagedbayeh
Pitch Black: www.instagram.com/pitchblacklb
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Remember how I said that Bey is chaotic? Well, remember that every single Lebanese has an opposing opinion to everything (even my friends). A simple question of where to take a taxi can result in 3 different answers depending on whom you ask and from which part of town they live in. One would say that it is safe to hail a taxi on the street, while another says never to do that. One would say that walking on the street is perfectly fine, while the other would NEVER dream of it. Do you take an Uber or trust the hotel concierge to book the trip for you?
So imagine my dilemma when I asked 3 different friends for wine recommendations - they all claimed their opposing choice was the “best”. And with that, I ended up purchasing 3 different wines, all of which were excellent – of course. I wish I had another way of saying “mix of contrasts” but that is really the only way I can give justice to this electrifying city. My biggest advice for first timers is this: visit with an open mind. Explore all parts of the city (or country) to really give you a complete picture, expect nothing but to be prepared for a beautiful mess.
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Things to remember:
The roads and streets are not all pedestrian friendly, so I recommend first timers to stick to tourist areas and those marked on The Big Bus Tours map.
Beirut is not on the "World’s Top 10 Safest Cities" list, so be cautious when walking around at night (especially as woman), do not hop into random cabs, and always let someone know where you are. Better yet, do not walk alone.
Throughout the city you will encounter soldiers guarding checkpoints. This is precautionary – it doesn’t mean something is about to erupt.
Traffic is a nightmare no matter which part of town you are in. It is very normal for cars to suddenly stop as friends step out to greet each other, holding up the que – so add at least 30 – 60 minutes to any journey (especially to the airport) to be on the safe side.
Lebanon is not Switzerland when it comes to time so do not be surprised if you have to wait 2 hours for the Big Bus at your next stop. Try not to get off at distant points because you may have to wait a while for the next one (as my friend D and I learned).
You do not have to exchange US Dollars into Lebanese Lira as the currency is accepted in any establishment.
Thanks to my friends D, E, R, N, A for showing me the sights and sounds of Beirut! For more photos, enjoy here.
xo,
Marina
Disclaimer: All views are my own and all photographs are © My Sweet Escapes, unless otherwise stated.
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