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Writer's pictureMarina Milic

Singapore | The Garden City

Updated: Aug 28, 2021


Singapore has long been a special destination for my family. I remember looking through photo albums of my parents' life in the mid 1980's while they lived in neighbouring Malaysia, enjoying holidays in the Garden City. The photos were filled with shades of green, colonial buildings, exotic birds and pure joy reflected in their smiles. And so, we decided to celebrate New Year 2019 in Singapore; I simply couldn't wait to walk in their shoes! (Deep down I think my father's excitement eclipsed mine, although he would never admit that).


Yes, I know ... this post is about 1.5 years late (thank you Covid-19) and this trip feels like a lifetime ago. My creativity and excitement to publish this post were destroyed by the stress and challenge the pandemic created, however a friend recently mentioned one of my other posts which re-ignited the spark. And so, please join me on a journey to the past :)


The flight with Singapore Airlines from Dubai Airport took about 7.5 hours; it was very comfortable and the journey as smooth (little did I know it would be my last trip for 2 years). Arrival at Changi Airport in the early hours was smooth like butter, and it was clear how top notch systems were. We purchased local SIM cards, organised a coach to drop us off at the hotel and enjoyed a light breakfast while waiting for the world to wake up.


Did You Know: Singapore’s national anthem is written in micro-text on the back of the SGD 1,000 note.

Singapore is a city that stimulated all of my senses. From the impeccable infrastructure and urban planning, to the exotic food markets, genuineness of citizens and lush greenery found at nearly every touch point, I felt a unique energy all around.


TALE AS OLD AS TIME


Singapore's history dates back to the 3rd century according to old records, however the legend of its discovery follows 14th century Prince Sang Nila Utama from Palembang (we will come back to this name later in the post), as he spotted a strange animal resembling a lion during one of his hunting trips. Using the Sanskrit words "simha" and "pura" he named the Island "Singapura" or "The Lion City". This is indeed a legend as lions have never been recorded in Singapore apart from in the zoo. Thanks to it's ideal location at the tip of the Malay Peninsula and abundant timber supply, Singapore flourished as a trading post serving Chinese, Arab, Portuguese, Dutch and Indonesian vessels. The city became an important stop connecting the East and West, welcoming explorers, traders, colonialists and travellers from China, India and Malaysia.


The country's history took a very important turn in 1819 when the British established control of the Port of Singapore, signaling a new era for the Island and its modern discovery. Under the leadership of Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles the city transformed and continues to the lead the world. Throughout the city, traces of history can be found which made this trip all the more memorable for me.


NATURE ALL AROUND


I couldn't quite comprehend the importance that nature played for Singaporeans, until I was in the middle of it. 47% of Singapore city (not including nature reserves) is covered with lush greenery and parks to the point that there is hardly any dust in the air, as our taxi driver kindly pointed out. Everything about the city is designed in a way to encourage cleanliness and order which I really admire. It is the cleanest and most organised place I have been to and I wish more countries would follow their lead.


Our 5 day trip was filled with activities and visits to most major landmarks, tasty eateries and gorgeous natural spots; however 5 days is not enough to experience it all. *sigh* . Follow our journey below to discover why Singapore is one of my favourite places in the whole world!



THINGS TO DO & PLACES TO VISIT


MARINA BAY

The first place we visited (as probably every other visitor does) is Marina Bay. Home to the Marina Bay Sands hotel, Merlion Park, Gardens by the Bay, Singapore Flyer, Artscience Museum and several other landmarks - this skyline has become synonymous with Singapore. We enjoyed a 60 minute boat trip cruising through the canals, got those mandatory photos and drank litres of bubble tea (a popular drink in South East Asia usually made with tea, containing tapioca pearls (boba) blended with sweetener and served cold - now a family favourite).


MERLION PARK Located at the Marina Bay enclave is a statue of Singapore's national icon. The Merlion is a mythical creature with the body of a fish and the head of a lion paying tribute to Singapore's heritage. Built in 1978, statue is 8.6m high and sprouts water from its mouth. It represents Singapura's early beginnings as a fishing village and serves as a connection to the past.


GARDENS BY THE BAY & SUPERTREE GROVE

Located by the Marina Bay Waterfront, Gardens by the Bay is a sanctuary for nature lovers and budding horticulturalists alike (I won't get into hectares, trust me its massive!).

We purchased a combo ticket which allowed us to access both indoor and outdoor exhibits; unfortunately we were not very organised and only managed to secure the last slot so our visit time was quite short. We mainly spent our time at the Flower Done which had the most beautiful Christmas themed display, snow and lots of holiday-favourite poinsettias. We missed the Cloud Forest which is home to the world's largest indoor waterfall and exotic plants - *ah for next time then!*

The crème de la crème of the experience are the Supertree Grove and OCBC Skyway. There are 18 Supertrees in the grove rising up 50m and are such an impressive sight! As dusk fell, the giants lit up brilliantly against the Marina Bay Skyline. We enjoyed a 10 minute light and sound show called "Garden Rhapsody" which featured Christmas music and brilliant lighting effects. After the show, we ascended to the Supertree Observatory where we strolled along the 12m long aerial walkway (OCBC Skyway), enjoying unobstructed views of the picturesque Marina Bay.

A note to those afraid of heights, it can be slightly intimidating as it is high and the walkway "shakes" slightly, but it is safe and so worth it!

SINGAPORE BOTANIC GARDENS (UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE)

If you are a nature lover, then this is one place you absolutely cannot miss! Established in 1859, the Singapore Botanic Gardens are located on an 82 hectare estate (that's about 150 football fields - yes its huge!) and are home to more than 10,000 types of plants. During our visit we enjoyed both sunshine (not so much humidity) and a beautiful rain storm.

The gardens feature several components including National Orchid Garden (home to the world's largest orchid), Rainforest, Ginger Garden (the intoxicating aromas of this garden created a beautiful fusion of scents), Botany Centre & Tanglin Gate and the Jacob Ballas Children's Garden. The estate is also filled with scattered sculptures donated by various patrons and dignitaries. It is also home to numerous animals including birds, insects and not so attractive crawlers (see if you can spot one in the photo below).

FORT CANNING PARK

One of my absolute favourite spots in all of Singapore is Fort Canning Park. The iconic hilltop landmark witnessed a lot of Singapore's important milestones dating back to the 14th century, and more recently the British surrender of Singapore to the Japanese in 1942. This event took place in in the Battle Box (see bottom left photo).

The park also features 9 striking historical gardens - these are my favourite:


Pancur Larangan (The Forbidden Spring): this incredible feature was a bathing site for 14th century royals.

Sang Nila Utama Garden: remember this prince from our intro? This incredible garden was inspired by 14th century South-Asia. It is dotted with beautiful Javanese split gates and has a range of statues which were believed to be seen in the garden.

Spice Garden: this impressive garden was created by Sir. Stamford Raffles in 1822 and is filled with amazing spices like lemongrass, coffee, cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, curry and so many more. The collection of aromas is insatiable!

Fort Canning Park is a favourite among residents and visitors looking to stay active while connecting with nature. It also hosts regular events, exhibitions, children's activations and even has a beautiful luxury heritage boutique hotel. My father and I hiked all over Fort Canning Park on the last day of 2019 and I could not imagine a better way to end the year.


Did You Know: Singapore is not only one island! 63 islands belong to the city state and are dotted around the mainland, most of which are inhabited.


SINGAPORE ZOO & NIGHT SAFARI

Zoos have been a part of my life from the age of 3; they were my favourite attraction to visit wherever we travelled. I was always fascinated to animals up-close and wanted to learn everything I could about them. The older I got, I learned the mental and physical toll these enclosures took on animals, most resulting in premature death. I also hated seeing idiotic and illiterate visitors making fun of them, rather than taking it as an opportunity to learn more about them.


Singapore Zoo is the most incredible place on the planet for animals in captivity and is designed to replicate their real-life environments with its unique "open-concept". I was stunned to see large cage-less "enclosures" and roaming furry friends interacting with visitors. When I saw an Orang Utan mother with her baby swinging freely from canopy to canopy above me, I nearly cried. In 2010 when my mum visited the zoo, she remembers resting on a bench admiring the Organ Utan mother, who sat down beside her, nursing her baby.


The sanctuary is set in a rainforest environment and is home to 2,400 residents; it is also globally recognised for its conservation initiatives and breeding programmes. Knowledge is a key pillar for the zoo as most enclosures had interactive elements to educate, especially for kids. I could go on and on but I will let some of the pictures do better justice to the experience!

Another exceptional experience that left me speechless was the award-winning (and world's first) Night Safari. The complex, located within the grounds of the Singapore Zoo, offers a unique opportunity to see nocturnal animals at night. We explored the park with a guided tram ride (with commentary) and saw lots of animals such as deer, bears, lions, hyenas and more going about their usual business. The experience was both thrilling and scary as we did not know what to expect; but I will definitely try for the guided walking night tour next time too. As a finale to the experience, we enjoyed the "Creatures of the Night" live show where nocturnal animals were the main stars. Sadly my camera took horribly blurry photos so you can enjoy snippets from their website by visiting this link.


I highly applaud the management of both establishments as everything is operated at the highest level. From wayfinding and educational info on each animal's enclosure, to the logistics and safety of the safari - I cannot recommend this experience enough. We did not have enough time to visit the Jurong Bird Park, Rainforest Lumina or try the River Safari, but they are on the list for next time!

My biggest word of advice is to pre-book any of experiences especially the Night Safari as the waiting lines can mean standing for up to 2 hours!

CHINA TOWN

Our hotel was located walking distance from Chinatown which made it super easy to explore spontaneously. The district is a fusion of diversity weaving together the historical and modern world. We loved wandering through Pagoda Street Market from shop to shop, sipping on bubble tea and snacking on Salted Egg Fish Skin crisps (trust me they are yummy!). With countless tourists flocking from every corner, shop keepers bargaining for the best price, and market sellers offering the freshest fruit and vegetable (or perhaps fresh seafood), it is undeniable that Chinatown's energy is constantly buzzing.


KAMPONG GLAM

Located in Arab Town, Kampong Glam is one of the most eclectic places I have been to. Historically it served as a housing zone for Muslim pilgrims making a stopover in Singapore on their way to Mecca. This incredible district has since then become a beautiful and hip tapestry of culture. Sultan Mosque is located in the beating heart of the community and is surrounded by diverse restaurants and shops, all connected to each other. We especially loved exploring Haji Lane - a street filled with urban boutiques, material shops and hip cafes. Watch out for the vibrant and colourful artwork along the way, I couldn't get enough of it!


SINGAPORE'S QUAYS

Singapore River flows throughout the city connecting three popular quays: Boat, Clarke and Robertson creating a perfect system of walking trails - especially for those who are counting their steps!


Robertson Quay: our hotel was located 5 mins walk from this one. It is much quieter than the other two and offers plenty of walking space, waterside restaurants and green spaces. The general crowd visiting Robertson Quay is over 30, and those who would rather wine, dine and people-watch, than dance the night away and get wasted on cheap beer.

Boat Quay: located between Robertson and Clarke Quay, this one passes through Singapore's Financial district. It is also surrounded by restaurants located in old warehouses, serving the freshest seafood like the resident specialty: Singapore Crab.

Clarke Quay: known for its eccentric pastel covered shades and energetic range of dining and nightlife. It is located at the foot of Fort Canning Park and a great place to enjoy a refreshment after your hike on the hill. My parents and I celebrated New Year here (at Hooter's no less) and we were able to see the fireworks all the way at Marina Bay.


SENTOSA

On our last day in Singapore, we enjoyed a scenic cable car ride to Sentosa Island - Singapore's capital of attractions. It was initially a military fortress, but was renamed once the Japanese returned Singapore to British Rule. (Sentosa means "peace and tranquility").

The island is a hub of entertainment, leisure and thrilling attractions as well as tropical beaches and luxurious resorts. Unfortunately we did not have time to explore the entire island so this will have to be an attraction for the next visit, but it is an amazing place for families.

More info: www.sentosa.com.sg


SHOP UNTIL YOU DROP (OR NOT)


I'm going to be perfectly honest and admit that shopping was not on my list of things to do in Singapore, which is unheard of for those who know me - however I do have access to the world's largest malls in the UAE *sigh*. For all those shopaholics out there, I can however confirm that you will not be disappointed. From the uber chic boutiques at Orchard Road to the traditional markets in Chinatown and trendy shops in Kampong Glam - you will not leave empty handed.


I did however fill my suitcase with Salted Egg Fish Skin crisps, pandan cookies, tourist keychains for my office crew and a beautiful book about Singapore's modern history which I picked up from the Heritage Centre in Chinatown.


CHANGI AIRPORT

This one made the list mainly because it is the most incredible airport (trust me on this one). Arrive a few hours earlier so you can enjoy all Jewel has to offer; or just to admire this impressive indoor rain forest featuring the world's tallest indoor waterfall, Rain Vortex.



FOOD, FOOD, FOOD


Everything in Singapore tastes better than I could have imagined - staring from the food on Singapore Airways ...I have yet to taste better airplane food. Singapore's cuisine stems from a long history of different cultures and has been influenced by global flavours and traditions over the centuries. Here are some Singaporean specialties to try on your next trip:

  • Kaya Toast with Kopi: Singapore's national breakfast

  • Singapore Chili or Black Crab

  • Hainanese chicken rice

  • Satay (influenced by Malaysia and Indonesia)

  • Laksa Noodle Soup (influenced by China and Malaysia)

  • Hokkien Prawn Mee

  • Oyster Omelette

  • Roti Paratha (influenced by India)

  • Durian (official fruit, extremely smelly but tasty!)

  • Pandan Cake (popular in Singapore, Indonesia and Netherlands)


The city offers something for every taste and budget, and this trip can be considered gastronomic (we love to eat)! For a unique street-food experience, try the Hawker Centre "Lau Pa Sat". A collection of restaurants are located in this historical landmark (right in the middle of the city centre). We tried a variety of dishes and were stuffed by the end of the night! Our wallets did thank us though as this is a very budget-friendly dining option.

Another great spot was Tong Fu Ju Sichuan Restaurant at Boat Quay where my dad and I had an al fresco lunch after our hike at Fort Canning Park.


Did You Know: The Singapore Sling was first served at the Raffles Hotel in 1915

For those looking for international food, there are of course countless restaurants serving everything you can dream of. One of my parents' favourite spots is Hooters on Clarke Quay (for the incredible chicken wings of course) and gorgeous views!



***


THE ESSENTIALS


Getting there

Singapore is located 7.5 hours away from Dubai. We flew with Singapore Airlines and I would recommend them for price, comfort and an easy safe journey. The timing was also perfect, we landed in the early morning hours and left in the evening.


Visa

Most nationalities do not need a visit to enter Singapore, however please do your homework before you book. This site might be helpful for those who do need visas. Covid-19 has changed the way we travel, so please be aware of all the travel requirements. This is a helpful link from www.visitsingapore.com.


Transportation

Singapore's transport network is one of the best in the world. Transportation options are easy depending on your destination. You can explore the city by MRT, bus, boat, car, bike or on foot.


Accommodation

There is no shortage of accommodation in the city; depending on your preferred location and budget. We stayed at the Furama RiverFront hotel, walking distance from Robertson Quay, Chinatown and Marina Bay.


Currency

The official currency is the Singapore Dollar. (* SGD 1 = AED 2.71 at the time of publishing this post.) Money Exchanges are available everywhere and it is advisable to carry cash as some places like street markets do not take card. All other major establishments do take card payments including taxis.

***


This trip was so special to me not only because I was able to walk in my parents' footsteps WITH them, but also because I made many treasured memories. A major highlight was reuniting with my dearest friend Zhiying whom I haven't seen in 10 years. We studied in Switzerland together and then had internships in the US - it was in Virginia that she introduced me to bubble tea. :)

They say you leave pieces of your heart around the world through memories and stories. I now know why this incredible country holds a dear place in my family's heart, and now mine. Singapore - I will be back!


xo,

Marina


  • To learn more about Singapore's unique history, click here.

  • Before visiting, please become familiar with the do's and don'ts of the city. A good round up can found here.

  • Details on the Traveller's SIM can be found here.


Disclaimer: All views are my own and all photographs are © My Sweet Escapes, unless otherwise stated.

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